1956D-1OM-002

Dick · Expert Member

I guess the "worm has turned"!
This is the first out of the tube:

Not a good picture, but the "evidence " is there.

This is a larger view of the "wood-paneling". Please ignore the gouges!
Dick

Teryble · Veteran Member

Good for you, go get'em Dick Smile

Dick · Expert Member

Only 10 rolls, and 49 cents to go!
Best I get busy. Gotta do some "cooking". That bunch of IHC are going to get a "bath". I cna't do any more harm than has already been done!
Dick

coppercoins · Site Admin

I don't mean to take the wind out of your sails, but I see no evidence at all. What are you looking at on that coin?

Dick · Expert Member

Chuck,Unless I am mistaken, and the site indicates I am not, I was trying to show thw the remnants ot a M N & E of the current MM.
The likghting is basd and very little can be determined with the present set-up.
Here is another try; The point of interet is at K-4, on the MM

The streaks in the alloy mix, give the "wood-paneling effect.
Dick

eagames · Expert Member

Dick,

I do see the line you see but it must be something else, notice on the listed pic on the site that the spike points a different direction than yours?

Also, woodgrain planchets are (from what I've seen) are on older cents mostly 09-late 30s.... I've seen 40s that have a few streaks but aren't woodys. Another thing about woodys is the streaks continue onto the rims and if you look real close under high mag you can see they are often more like tiny planchet laminations with sections lifting and micro lamination defects.

Just a guess, that coin may have been wiped with something that streaked it (or it would be the most modern woody I ever saw) and I'm not sure what the line on the D is but it's not like 1OM-002.

http://coppercoins.com/lincoln/diestate.php?date=1956&die_id=1956d1om002&die_state=lds

Dick · Expert Member

Ed, I have been using the site photos for the identification of most of the dies. I have 11 rolls of the '56-D, and most of them are wood-grained, (in several dirextions). Others are very pitted. Like some of the blanking strp metal was rough surfaced.
Anyway, I as guessing, because i can't get enough mag, to see clearly. Maxie, move over, looks like Dixie is going to join you!
Dick

eagames · Expert Member

Dick, If "most" of those 1956-d cents are streaked like that they must be wiped.

Some people hate em but I like em! Here's a red brown unc 1919 woody:

eagames · Expert Member

Dick, look close at the coin, does it have a doubled eyelid?

Just a SWAG, the only thing I see listed that looks possible is this one.

http://coppercoins.com/lincoln/diestate.php?date=1956&die_id=1956d1mm019&die_state=mds

http://coppercoins.com/lincoln/diestate.php?date=1956&die_id=1956d1do008&die_state=mds

Dick · Expert Member

Ed, the first thing I did was to list, and view the "eye-lids. No one home. I break it down by MM location, and graduate them by use of the artists grid. That way I have some relationship with the different positions, even, East, or west That also applies to the vertical position, up, od down with relation to the tail of the "9". That way I can spot an "even, even, as level with the tail, and the curve of the "D" lines up with the leading edge of the "5". I al;so use a "straight-edge, made of mylar flip, to get a good view of ths separation, based on the width of the "1". The final comparison is to project the image of my coin on the TVB, and size it to the same proportions as the site photo, with artists grids in front of each image. Sounds complicated, but actually it is quite simple, having the materials needed. Next best thing to amn "over-lay".
The "wood-paneling effect", I don;'t know what caused it, but with my limited experience, I make guesses, and "wait for the sky to fall"! I don't get upset if some one says something, because I enjoy critisism, and if constructive, better. I am a learner, (slow for sure, but eventually it soaks in). So keep it coming.
Dick

eagames · Expert Member

Dick,

That grid will work for step 2 but I don't see how this coin gets there.

That coin has a curve going NE from the lower part of the D. 1OM-002 has a curve going SE from the lower corner of D.
I don't get to the step of comparing location.

1) Look for the same sep and shape. (this coin is not)
(if not same no need for step 2)

2) Verify mintmark location matches
(if not same no need for step 3)

3) Look for matching markers
(if not it might be a different state or different die)

So that's why I'm back at step 1 looking for something with a curve of that shape and sep (a curve going NE).

Are you doing something different?

Smile

Dick · Expert Member

ED, there is another "step", that wasn't mentioned, and that one is the need to focus on a very small area. I am no longer able to do that, even with a very large image on the TV.
I used to do things like everyone else, but my "peepers, don't peep so well anymore. That is one of the requirements for a Drivers license, or being declared "legally blind" by the VA. My peripheral vision is normal. I look at a person, and see the figure, but none of the facial features. I have trouble recognizing people I know, at more than a few meters distance. I may be slowed down, but no way are they going to stop me!
Dick

Dick · Expert Member

I just re-red youe steps, and where you mention a NE, I can only see some debri, but no more. My best guess is , and can only be an approximation, for lack of details. Unless there is some large indicator, to be sure of, it is "ball-park" at best. These coins, for the most part are BU. That is what has me wondering what happened with the "wood-grain" effect, as well.
Dick

eagames · Expert Member

Dick, I was mostly looking at the line I showed (yellow) arrow. Also looked like something on the vertical bar (red). Maybe it's a piece of something, QX images to me are confusing, I can't tell raised or gouged or reflection from real in QX pics as well as from other pics.

I wouldn't doubt if someone had a roll of unc/au and did something to the roll to "improve them" that caused streaks.

At a show a seller had a 1/2 roll of red 36-d cents that looked like they had been "brasso" polished and a 42-s roll that looked the same.

The shame is both rolls were probably slightly toned or spotty uncs before someone "improved" them and made them into junk.

Dick · Expert Member

Ed, That last picture is from a different camera, and scope. I have been checking the coins very closely, and the streaks, are just that: something was poured, or had some type of liquid in it that caused toe surface to etch. There are many with severe pitting aliong those lines. So the wood-grain is not. The debris, or what ever you see in, and aeround the coin is very much like a few others I have found. There are at least 6 different dies here, maybe more. But there are a lot with die cracks, all alike, and several different shaped ans sized cracks, some high, others low. /some very high, and long. There are a lot with a chipped die, on the "9". Inside the top of the "9" id ablob, but very smooth, and symetrical, that encompasses the topthird of the arc. At leaast a tube of them, and a tube of each sized cracks, as well. I still have 8 rolls to check.
I saw what you were pointing out, but can't figure what it might be. I doubt it would be a different )M. These coins run from a dull green, not verdi-gris, but a nice green, other colors run from a very brighr red, bright green bright blue, even a few with normal coloring. You recall, I had to CUT them out of plastic tuibes. I coildn;t move one out, nuch kless pour them all out. I split the tube, with some oily substance, and eventually tried to clean some up, but it was a dirty job. I used some AWESOME, 7-1/2:1 on them for about ten minuted. They came out without the oily surface. I also used the same mix, and some Goo-0Gone, on some others, and some IHC. The results were varying from nice to little, if any change.. A few more were left overnight. Some of the verdi-gris appeared to be dissolving, and not effect on the surface, noted.
So much for the experiments.
Diock