Sweden 1912/1 1 ore overdate

[KurtS]

Recently I've become interested in overdates on European coins since I figure there are fewer collectors looking here in the US.

Here's a coin that caught my eye at the recent show, due to two distinct, angular protrusions beyond the contour of the 2 in 1912. I should note there is a documented 1912/1 overdate, and I did not see these marks on another 1912 coin, so I doubt they are shoulders on a punch. Another interesting detail is the relief of the 2 is higher than the other date digits, which might suggest the last digit is punched independently into the die.

The two areas in question pointed out by arrows. Despite what my QX5 captures, both are quite distinct and geometric--they stood at at first glance under the loupe.



Another lighting angle. Note the distinct angular protrusion on the bottom of the 2, and compare it to the 1 on the left. I also find it interesting how that little ding on the corner of the 1 resembles a similar mark on the protrusion on the 2--see final pic.



Making an overlay of the 1 on the left, it's interesting to note how the right-hand corners of the 1 digit closely match the protrusions on the 2:



A comparison of the mark on both the lower corner of the 1 and on the protrusion of the 2 at the same location. Coincidence?--probably.

[Teryble]

Very cool Kurt! The coin & your over-lays. Needless to say good eye. As you know, I'm no pro, but looks good to me
Tery

[KurtS]

Thanks...I'm pretty surprised by finding this one. Of course, I was looking for it--it helps to carry a notebook to shows with all these dates/denominations noted.

Now I'm not saying this is the 1912/1 with any certainty, but after I did the overlays I got a nice confirmation for these marks--especially given their absence on other coins. Next step will be to get a book with the markers--I have to write to Denmark for that--and brush up on Danish

[Dick]

Kurt, Another very interesting lesson! That is, beyond a doubl, the 2/1! Nice picking. I fired up my QX3 today, to see if I could see any better with it, but, it is the same as the rst. I have anadaptor I use with mine, mounted on the QSZ base. makes for very smooth focusig. BTW, does your QX5 have the changable resolution? I would imagine it does. It makes it much easier, (for me, with a very large screen) to see what is on the coin.
Dick

[KurtS]

Dick,
I have the QX5 with 10X, 60X, and 200X resolution--there are three independent lens groups to select. Yes, it's sure easier than squinting through a loupe, but I'm not totally happy with lighting, contrast settings, or focus--all pretty crude by my book. But--I really can't complain for $85!

Even without an attribution, sometimes these varieties "sink in" because there's some inherent logic to the attribution, as is the case here. I picked up yet another overdate from Sweden at the show which I'm now working on pics. While I found documentation showing the coin, I think I've discovered this is not a 1858/57, but an 1858/1857! It's a lot of fun to make a discovery like this--I'll post info later.

[Dick]

Kurt, my QX3, is essencially the same thuing. I had so much troublwe with the focus, even after working on it, that I made a base for the QX3 to sit in, while mounted on the base of the QSZ, my stereo-zoom scope. The lighting, etc is different that way, and the focus is just like the scope. I dom like the Picture taklimng, and storasge, and retrieval sysrtem. All in one place!
It sure makes ones day when you find something like that!
You recall I told ED that I had found a way to be MUCH more precise with my "guesstimates". I cut a mylar 2X2 flip apart, and use it in a regular flip, cut in half, as a strait-edge. I can tell the alginment of the MM, in relation to other devices, and make very close guesses as to which variety it is. I guess I found over a dozen '578-D's in a short while, after using it.
Another question, while I am thinking about it: Have you sseen any pictures, pr photos of the different '22_D varieties? I looked on the site, and had no luck. [Ditto, the '09. I wanted to compare mine with the DDO/DDR's that are known.] I just checked the site, and there are several! Must have entered the wrong data.
Dick

[KurtS]

Hmm...I haven't been lucky with Lincoln varieties, except those close AMs. I've never found a Lincoln DD or rpm--but I keep looking. It sounds like you figured out a good setup for yourself.

[Dick]

Good morning, Kurt! No, I haven't been that lucky, with the close/far AM's. I now find the RPM's, and other varieties a little better, having a way to "measure" the distances, under the scope. Before, I had to judge, and if one cannot see, how can they judge? I use a grid on the monitor, and pull up the desired image. Then I have valid measurements to go by, after that if I see it, I can ID it. current project:11 rolls of 1956-D cents. At one time they were BU. now many, if not most are BP, (as in badly pitted)! They are the ones I had to actually cut out of the plastic tubes. Whatr ever the liquid was in there, did a number on them. I have no idea how long they had been "tubed" either.
Dick

[KurtS]

As an update, I've found an OK photo of the normal 1912, plus shot a new detail of the 1912/1 contrasted to a normal date.

[GarryN]

Ebay has a these once in a while, Ive seen some overdates on the Sweden and Iceland coins.